Bhutan Unveiled
TEN THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT THE LAND OF THE THUNDER DRAGON
Activities 7 minute read
Bhutan is a kingdom that defies the ordinary from the outset, from the Himalayan peaks that pierce its landscapes, to the legends that shape its reputation as the Land of the Thunder Dragon. Here, we list some of Bhutan’s most unusual characteristics — and how to experience them for yourself with a stay at one of our Bhutanese lodges, COMO Uma Paro and COMO Uma Punakha.
1
Bhutan’s borders were closed until 1974, when the government began to welcome tourists to promote its traditions to the outside world. Previously, Bhutan had been in self-imposed isolation to protect the country’s Buddhist culture and unspoiled landscape from globalisation. COMO’s itineraries offer an authentic deep-dive into the culture, history and natural beauty of Bhutan — which even today, can feel elusive to visitors unfamiliar with the country.
2
If the air seems fresher in Bhutan, it’s because it is. Bhutan is the first country in the world that has environmental protection built into its constitution. It’s stipulated that at least 60 per cent of the nation must remain under forest cover at all times, making Bhutan the world’s only carbon-negative nation, as it absorbs more carbon dioxide than it produces.
You’ll get the sense of that clean air and thick forest cover almost everywhere in Bhutan, but Dochula Pass is the best place for far-reaching views that reveal the true scope of this environmental ambition. It’s located along the winding road between COMO Uma Punakha and COMO Uma Paro. The pass sits at high altitude — 3,000 metres — with sweeping views of the Himalayas on a clear day, and seemingly endless forests stretching out in every direction.
3
In Bhutan, all citizens turn one year older on New Year’s Day. It originally began as most people did not record their own birth date due to illiteracy, and was maintained as it became easier to share a communal celebration of the year rather than a month and day. Bhutan’s New Year’s Day celebrations are an important layer of its cultural fabric — and a great time to be in the country, with clear blue skies revealing the Himalayas’ white peaks.
4
If you visit COMO Uma Paro in March or April, you might coincide with Paro Tshechu, celebrated at Paro Dzong, which features a series of religious mask dances which tell the story of Bhutan’s Buddhism. Thimphu Tshechu is a similar celebration, but on a larger scale, celebrated in late September or early October, with folk songs and traditional dances.
COMO Uma Punakha is in close proximity to Punakha Dzong, where the annual Punakha Drubchen and Punakha Tshechu take place in February or March. These dramatic festivals include reenactments of 17th-century battles as well as masked dances, in the striking setting of one of Bhutan’s most important fortified monasteries on the banks of the Mo Chhu and Pho Chhu rivers.
5
Contrary to inheritance law almost anywhere else, Bhutanese families pass property onto the eldest daughter rather than the son. After marriage, a man moves into the home of his new wife rather than the other way around. Bhutanese culture places high value on female modesty, so you won’t necessarily encounter female power in an obvious manner.
One way to get closer to the female narrative in Bhutan is to spend time with textile weavers. Bhutanese traditional garments remain everyday dress; men wear knee-length ghos and women wear ankle-length dresses called kiras. The art of weaving provides important income for many Bhutanese women, and the traditions associated with their making include intricate symbols hidden among the warp and weft. Examples of this work can be seen at COMO The Shop.
6
Ignoring global metrics of economic growth, Bhutan developed the concept of Gross National Happiness. It is often ranked as the happiest nation in South Asia and among the top ten happiest places in the world. Gross National Happiness is measured on key factors including ecological diversity, psychological wellbeing and cultural diversity. Buddhist philosophy is at the core of the population’s wellbeing, and is best experienced firsthand with a temple visit.
7
Bhutan’s national sport is archery, the sport evolving from traditional hunting and warfare. Archery tournaments are often held during the country’s religious festivals and other major celebrations. Competitors shoot at small wooden targets placed 145 metres apart — a far greater distance than is usual in international archery. The sport is an important means of community bonding. At COMO Uma Paro, guests can try their own hand at archery, with a lesson from one of our expert teachers.
8
Spice-lovers rejoice, and the spice-sensitive beware – chilli is not a condiment in Bhutan, but an essential vegetable. At Bukhari, the in-house restaurant at both COMO Uma Paro and COMO Uma Punakha, you’ll have the opportunity to taste authentic Bhutanese dishes from chilli and cheese to fern tips. Our Head Chef, Tshering Lhaden, sources fresh ingredients locally, including vegetables from the lodges’ own kitchen gardens.
9
You will likely see a number of colourful phallus drawings on the walls of certain houses in Bhutan. These aren’t graffiti, but rather a tradition that symbolises good luck and fertility. Phalluses are believed to ward off evil spirits. Bhutan’s most famous fertility temple, Chimi Lhakhang, is around 45 minutes’ drive from COMO Uma Punakha.
The temple dates back to the 15th century and is dedicated to Drukpa Kuenley, a Tibetan Buddhist saint, known as the ‘Divine Madman’. Chimi Lhakhang is one of the best examples of fertility symbol-adornment, and has long been a site of pilgrimage for couples hoping to start a family.
10
Many Bhutanese people believe in the existence of yetis, so much so that a 750km² conservation area, the Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary, is dedicated to their protection. Although Sakteng is in Bhutan’s east, a long way from COMO’s lodges, there’s an opportunity to engage with another near-mythical creature just outside the capital, Thimphu.
The Royal Takin Preserve is around one-and-a-half hours’ drive from COMO Uma Paro, and is home to the country’s national animal. Takin are rare large ungulates that look a little like oxen crossed with goats, with a bulbous snout and heavy horns. Bhutanese lore says that takin were created by the ‘Divine Madman’.
For more information, or to book your stay at COMO Uma Paro or COMO Uma Punakha, please contact our team.
