Giovanni Luca di Pirro is Executive Chef at COMO Castello del Nero in Tuscany, encompassing the Michelin-starred La Torre and the al fresco Pavilion. He trained at the Institute Hotelier Malatesta in Rimini and has worked with many of Italy’s best restaurants. He has lived in Tuscany since 1999 and it is under his leadership that La Torre gained — and has maintained — its first Michelin star.
My father is a chef so I practically grew up in a restaurant. Being in the kitchen with my father always brought me immense joy, so I think I always knew this was my calling.
For me, it’s very important to dedicate the same passion to both of the restaurants. That means sticking to my moral and professional principles without deviating from them. I champion fresh, local and seasonal ingredients, served farm-to-table and with exacting standards to produce best-in-class meals, every time. Whichever restaurant they choose, I want guests to feel welcome and at home.
Farm-to-table cuisine is about eating fresh, seasonal and local food. While technical knowledge is essential to making great Italian food, it’s the quality of your ingredients that’s the real secret to sensational dishes. I maintain close relationships with local suppliers who grow, raise and harvest extraordinary ingredients. We also have our own organic vegetable garden at COMO Castello del Nero; we produce our own Sangiovese wine, olive oil and sunflower oil; guests can go truffle hunting on the estate. It’s hyper-local — and it doesn’t get more farm-to-table than eating truffles for supper that you found yourself that day!
In spring, I turn to our vegetable garden for asparagus, carrots and artichokes. There’s something in the combination of fresh, sweet and bitter flavours that makes my dishes feel deeply harmonious. Then in summer, tomatoes — especially those from our garden — are an extraordinary fruit that with very little work or cooking makes everyone happy. In autumn and winter, the white truffle is the king of the table; the earthy layers pair perfectly with meat, vegetables and fish. Year-round, I love working with our olive oil; it’s exceptional. I drizzle it over salads, and use it to enhance the flavour of grilled vegetables, or add a rich, smooth touch to finish off a dish.
I couldn’t pick a favourite; both of the restaurant feels like an extension of myself and my passions — we’ve grown together in the years I’ve worked at COMO Castello del Nero. But I will admit there are particular dishes that I can never resist at each of them.
At La Torre, the menu is contemporary with a twist. Every dish exemplifies fine dining but the pigeon is among my favourites. The meat is locally sourced and the presentation is incredibly beautiful with each component served separately. I fry the pigeon thighs first, then cook the breast over hot coals. I bake the rest in the oven, then serve the dish with apricot sauce, jus and foie gras.
At Pavilion, the dining is focused on summer ambience. I love the pici pasta with Tuscan ragu, mushrooms and Pecorino. It was the first pasta I tried when I arrived in Tuscany, so it has a special place in my heart.
While I enjoy cooking any and all Italian food, I adore preparing vegetables and vegetarian dishes — there’s so much scope for versatility and imagination.
There are many beautiful dishes on our menus, as well as accomplishments to be proud of, such as La Torre’s Michelin star. But the most rewarding aspect of all is the strong bond we share as a team. I hope that all our guests sense that togetherness when they dine at one of our restaurants, and feel included in the family atmosphere.
For more information, or to make a reservation at La Torre or Pavilion, speak to the concierge at COMO Castello del Nero.
