Discovering the Soul of Balinese Cuisine

Taste of COMO is a pop-up event spotlighting cuisine from the culinary world of the COMO Group. This month, Chef Dewa Wijaya invites you to taste the flavours from his Balinese homeland, bringing his gastronomic heritage and innovation to COMO Cuisine at COMO Orchard in Singapore from 19th to 23rd June 2024.

Wijaya made his name at Kudus House, which forms the literal and metaphorical heart of COMO Shambhala Estate in Ubud, Bali. Occupying a 150-year-old traditional teak residence, Kudus House showcases the diverse cuisines of this island archipelago, with Bali at its centre.

Wijaya’s culinary journey is deeply rooted in his upbringing. He was profoundly influenced by his mother’s traditional cooking using root vegetables and fresh spices over a wood-burning stove.

“Balinese cuisine is a part of who I am,” says Wijaya; “It’s not just about the food; it’s about the culture, the rituals, and the community.”

His approach is grounded in the farm-to-table reality of Bali’s farming communities: locality and seasonality matter. The practice of using food as medicine is part of a strong Balinese ‘healing’ tradition. Given the rich seas that surround the island, seafood is also a key element of the cuisine, while lush rainfall ensures thriving spice gardens. This is reflected in the vibrant flavours of sweet, salty, and sour, combined with complex spice blends made from ingredients sourced from the land, such as lemongrass, galangal, and kaffir lime leaves.

“We let the quality of the ingredients speak for themselves,” says Wijaya; “Aromatic ingredients like white turmeric, which I love to work with, play a crucial role in creating the perfect balance of flavours.”

But Bali is also just one island — a confluence of influences —  in a hugely varied Indonesian archipelago. Wijaya binds these different traditions into his cooking.

For this edition of Taste of COMO, highlights include the Perkedel Jagung, Indonesian corn fritters popular in West Sumatra; and Udang Sambal Dabu, shrimp cooked in a spicy sambal from Manado in the North Sulawesi province.

Ingredients on the menu are also locally sourced from Bali. “I believe in supporting local farmers and artisans, ensuring that every ingredient is not only of the highest quality but also ethically sourced,” he says.

For instance, there will be two types of organic rice served, cultivated from the renowned Jatiluwih Rice Terraces, which use an intricate irrigation system dating back to the ninth century, crucial to Bali's agriculture.

He’s excited to showcase Kerapu Bumbu Kalas — a light curry of fresh grouper with choko, green chilli, and apple aubergines — seasoned with aromatic ingredients like cumin and candlenut.

Another essential element of Balinese tradition is the concept of ‘megibung’: food is about bringing people together, affirming a sense of belonging, togetherness, and community. This is traditionally enjoyed at long tables topped with a wide array of dishes served in banana leaves where everyone is invited to partake.

“Megibung represents the spirit of the Balinese people, cuisine and culture which I want to bring to this pop-up in Singapore,” says Wijaya; “It’s what I used to think about when I was working in other parts of the world. Through each dish, I hope to transport diners back to the heart of my beautiful island where every bite is a celebration of tradition, culture, and the simple, transformative joy of sharing a meal. Maybe it might also persuade a few people to come and enjoy Kudus House for themselves.”

Taste of COMO is an ongoing dining series. The first edition showcased the flavours of Bhutan, and we are excited to announce that the 2024 lineup will feature cuisines from Thailand in August and France in November.